Lilies In Bloom
has compiled these questions and answers from requests for information.
If you don't find what you are looking for here check the links in the
information boxes to the right and if you still do not find the answer
please e-mail us for more info.
Answers
In what climates can I grow lilies?
Lilies are easy to grow anywhere in New Zealand. Outside
New Zealand: - lilies need some winter cooling in order to flower, so in the
tropics would possibly need to be dug and stored in the fridge for 8-10 weeks,
whilst being kept moist. In very cold climates when there is not a lot of snow
cover they may need to be mulched or even lifted and stored indoors in a cool
place. Oriental lilies are less tolerant of very cold condtions than Asiatics
or L/A Hybrids. Go back to the questions
Where should I plant my lilies?
Grow in a well-drained position. A raised bed or sloping position is strongly recommended.
The need for excellent drainage cannot be over -emphasised. Grow in part or full
sun. As a general rule, strong coloured lilies, ie. , reds, oranges and yellows
look better and develop stronger colours in good light; delicate pastel colours
keep their colours a little longer if protected from the heat of the midday
sun. Go back to the questions
When do I plant lilies?
Plant your bulbs as soon as you receive them, unpacking and dusting off the moist sawdust
first. Go back to the questions
How should I plant lilies?
Ideally plant10 cm deep, but if the drainage is less than ideal (especially in the wetter
places) plant as shallow as 5 cm. Most lilies have stem roots just below the
surface. A mulch, ground-cover or shade from trees will keep these roots cool
and moist. Go back to the questions
Can I grow them in pots?
Yes, use a tall (rather than squat) 15-20 cm. pot. A planter bag (PB8 size) can also be used.
Fill the pot half full with a free draining potting mix, or make up a mix of
four parts fine bark, one part sand plus slow release fertiliser. Place the
bulb and fill the pot. A few bulbs can be planted together in a larger size
patio container. Go back to the questions
Do I lift my lily bulbs in winter?
No, lily bulbs are best left undisturbed and do not need to be lifted except in very
cold climates when there is not a lot of snow cover. Go back to the questions
When should I divide my bulbs?
Bulbs multiply and may be lifted and divided every three or four years. They may also
be left alone for many years to give a large clump. Go back to the questions
Do I cut back my lilies when they have flowered?
No, allow the lily stems to die back naturally, the
dried up stems can then be removed. Go back to the questions
How often should I water my lilies?
Lilies are able to withstand dry conditions that would
kill most shrubs, but grow best with constant moisture. However good drainage is
essential to ensure they never become sodden. If possible, water without wetting
the leaves. Go back to the questions
Are lilies frost tender?
Not usually as they die down in winter but sometimes a late frost on new growth in spring can
cause damage. Go back to the questions
How do I fertilise lilies?
Feed well, in the ground use roughly one tablespoon per plant of good quality, general purpose
fertiliser in spring and again before flowering, but no fresh manure.
In a
pot, add 1 tbsp. slow release, coated fertiliser each spring. Go back to the questions
What about spraying?
Keep lilies free of aphids as these pass on virus diseases. Use an insecticide eg maldison
(Malathion), Neem soap (obtainable from Trade Aid shops, use a
dessertspoonful for 2 litres) or summer oil. Spray against fungal infection,
especially before an extended period of warm, wet weather is expected, using a
fungicide (eg Bravo, Thiram, Greenguard or Copper) or a dessertspoonful baking
soda in 2 litres of warm water. Neem soap also helps against fungal
diseases. Go back to the questions
Can I cut my lilies for flowers?
Lilies make excellent cut flowers but cutting will reduce the bulb's potential vigour
the next season. When cutting leave at least 1/3 rd of stem on the plant.
Always break the stems rather than cutting, as the cutting instrument can
possibly pass on virus diseases from one lily to the next. (Cheap bulbs offered
for sale have often been exhausted by cutting, as commercial flower growers need
to cut the whole stem and these bulbs are more likely to be infected by viruses
because of the cutting process. We do not cut any flowers at "Lilies In
Bloom"). Go back to the questions
When will I get my bulbs?
We send out
most of our bulbs from May to mid July. Bulbs can be held in our cool store
until November if necessary. Export orders are usually sent out in June. Go back to the questions
What is the advantage of Southern Hemisphere grown bulbs for Northern Hemisphere customers?
It is widely accepted that
lily bulbs do not enjoy being dug, the reason being there is always some damage
to the roots and bulbs during digging. This can lead to fungal infections at the
site of the damage. The best way to prevent this is for the bulbs to start
growing shortly after digging.
Unfortunately, this is not usually possible.
Bulbs are normally dug in the fall (autumn) and spend their next few months
either sitting in the cold ground (often under less than perfect conditions),
cold-stored, awaiting spring planting, or worst of all on the shelves of a
garden store at room temperature.(which is a perfect environment for fungi to
grow)
Now, Northern Hemisphere customers can overcome this by ordering bulbs
from us.
Since the seasons in the Southern Hemisphere are opposite to the
Northern Hemisphere, bulbs here are dug in May (our autumn) and sent out
shortly after. Therefore when planted in the Northern Hemisphere they will start
growing almost immediately.
Over the last few years, many Northern
Hemisphere cut-flower lily bulb producers have set up subsidiaries in New
Zealand in order to take advantage of this reduced time between digging and the
onset of new growth.
At "Lilies In Bloom" we take the greatest possible care
to avoid damage to our bulbs. We use the best harvesting equipment available,
and the bulbs are then carefully washed and individually inspected to export
standards before being hand packaged for dispatch. This ensures your bulbs are
in the best possible condition when they reach you, ready to be planted. Go back to the questions
How will the change of season to the northern hemisphere affect the bulbs?
Bulbs are sent out in June and will be delayed in their flowering (usually August or September) for the first summer. Go back to the questions
I live in a tropical climate, how do I know if I need to cool my bulbs to make them flower each year and how do I do this?
Lilies need a cool period of less than about 20ºC (68ºF) for at least 8-10 weeks. If they do not get this naturally you may need to dig and refrigerate your bulbs for approximately 10-12 weeks once each year. During this time they need to be kept moist, so if they’re looking healthy, pack them with some moist soil in a loosely sealed plastic (polythene) bag. If there’s any sign of rot, then clean up the bulbs, dip them in a fungicide and store them in damp peat moss or similar. Go back to the questions
What fungicide spray should I use on my lilies?
Botrytis is the main fungal diseases which attacks lilly foliage. It first appears as small white spots on the leaves, buds or flowers. Any spray used needs to be one that is effective against botrytis.
Fungal sprays are of two types;
Firstly protective fungicides which must be applied BEFORE any signs of the disease appear. These are used on a regular basis. Examples are;
Thiram is an inexpensive one but needs to be repeated regularly.
Chlorothalohil (trade names Bravo, Daconil, Echo, Exotherm, Termil, Forturf, Mold-Ex, Nopcocide, Ole, Pillarich, Repulse or Tuffcide) is more expensive but longer lasting.
Secondly those which have some ability to kill or eradicate the fungus some of these are;
Iprodione (trade names Rovral or Verisan )
Vinclozolin (trade names Drive, Ornalin, Ronilan or Vorlan)
These should be saved for times when it is particulary challenging ie extended wet weather.Go back to the questions
The last 2-3 years the lillies have been comming up smaller every year. Most of the lilies grew anywhere from 2-4ft. in height now they are thinner and shorter. Can you let me know what if anything I can do to get them back to there original size?
If you have fertilised them and they do not respond the lack of vigour is probably due to a build up of soil-borne pests. Next winter try moving them to a new position in the garden. In the process carefully washing off all the soil and trimming the roots back to a couple of inches before replanting.
Go back to the questions
|
